Hugo Ortega's downtown Oaxacan restaurant — the James Beard Best Chef Southwest winner (along with Hugo's and Caracol, his wife Tracy Vaught's restaurant group) dedicated this room to the regional cuisine of his home state. Mole negro, tlayudas, mezcal aged in clay; the cooking treats Oaxacan tradition with the same chef-driven seriousness most American kitchens reserve for European cuisines. For Mexican regional cooking at its most ambitious in a city that takes the tradition seriously.