Ronny Emborg took over Atera's TriBeCa tasting counter in 2015 and has run the program for eleven years — a stretch of chef-continuity rare for a New York 2-Michelin-star room, which has held both stars continuously since 2012. The format is a roughly thirteen-course $325 tasting at a small Worth Street counter, with pairings split between wine ($218) and a non-alcoholic Temperance program ($138) that reads more like a parallel ingredient progression than a substitute. The Danish-born Emborg cooks a precise, plated New American — small, technical dishes (osetra caviar with pistachio; a lobster-caviar taco signature) woven through global accents without leaving the seasonal-American frame. For chef-driven small-counter tasting menus where the through-line is one cook's decade-plus mark on the kitchen, not the trend cycle.