LOS ANGELES
ITALIAN
Bestia
Italian · Spirited · Downtown Los Angeles
$$$
A cavernous Arts District room where Ori Menashe's wood-fired Italian has been the city's most coveted reservation since 2012. The pizza came first — blistered, charred at the edges, treated like a serious dish rather than party food — but it's the housemade salumi, the bone marrow ravioli, and the saltwater-cured anchovies that hold the obsession. Loud, packed, romantic if you squint. Plan ahead; you don't walk in.