Nancy Oakes's Embarcadero institution has been one of SF's most consistent fine-dining rooms since 1993 — a Belle Époque interior in the Audiffred Building, Bay views that still feel earned, and a kitchen that treats California cuisine with the gravity it deserved before it became fashionable. The wood oven runs all night, the wine program is deep, and the service knows the regulars. For a real San Francisco dinner with real San Francisco history.