Amy Brandwein's Michelin Bib Gourmand CityCenterDC restaurant has been DC's quietly excellent modern Italian destination since 2015 — a James Beard nominee for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic, a market-driven menu that rotates with the seasons, and a pasta program that justifies the booking on its own. The room buzzes through service, the wine list runs deep into Italian regionals, and the cooking shows the discipline of someone who learned Italian food in actual Italy.