HOUSTON
FRENCH
Cocody Restaurant & Bar
French · Refined · River Oaks
$$$
Named for the Abidjan neighborhood where owners Edwin and Edith Bosso grew up, Cocody is a passion-project fine-dining room on West Gray — but the cooking is French, not Ivorian, driven by Provence-born co-chefs Lionel Debon and David Denis. Expect classic French technique with a globe-trotting streak: burrata folded into a blanched tomato, cherry-wood-smoked scallops, Colorado lamb saddle, plus a few styling flourishes (the "gourmet lollipops") that lean more Instagram than essential. A personal, polished room that takes French cooking seriously without the institutional baggage. Come for refined French plates with a sentimental backstory.