Brian Dunsmoor's hyper-regional American restaurant operates from a Glassell Park kitchen built around a wood-burning hearth — the kind of place where the menu shifts with what came in that morning, the cornbread arrives in a cast-iron skillet, and the heritage hog and ember-cooked fish carry the weight of his Southern-via-California sensibility. Warm, unpretentious, the rare LA room that feels rooted rather than performed.