A cozy 28-seat red-sauce Italian-American on West Town's Grand Avenue — chef-owners Ian Rusnak (ex-Blackbird, NoMI, Carbone) and Eric Safin (ex-Jean-Georges, ZZ's Clam Bar) cook "all killer, no filler" classics: rigatoni alla vodka, chicken parm, mozzarella en carrozza. Named for Safin's mother, it's an unpretentious charmer with serious kitchen pedigree behind the comfort food. Come for red-sauce classics from chefs who know better and choose this anyway.