Brooklyn's 1879 chophouse — gas lamps, cherry-wood, etched mirrors, the most intact Victorian dining room in New York — restored and reopened in April 2021 by chef-partner Sohui Kim (Insa, The Good Fork) + Ben Schneider + Fort Defiance's St. John Frizell after the original closed in 2004. The kitchen under executive chef Adam Shepard runs an Edna Lewis-influenced American program: oyster and raw bar, dry-aged steaks and chops at the center, fried chicken with cornmeal fritters from the Lewis canon, plus a dessert course Michelin calls essential. Frizell's classic-cocktail bar carries the period register without kitsch. Michelin Selected in the 2025 + 2026 NY guides; Pete Wells listed the room on his NYT Top 100 in 2023 (#43) and 2025; Sohui Kim was a 2023 JBF Best Chef NY semifinalist. Heritage-building register parallel to & Son Steakeasy's 190-year Greenwich Village townhouse and BONDST's NoHo brownstone. For Downtown Brooklyn's landmark chophouse where the 1879 dining room is the editorial substance.