Donald Link's flagship — the more refined sibling to Cochon, named for the anise liqueur and running a French-Creole menu that earned Link a James Beard award. The muscovy duck leg confit with dirty rice is the signature; the gumbo is among the city's best; the wine program is serious. A St. Charles Avenue room that's been quietly excellent since 2000. For Louisiana cooking with French polish and two decades of consistency.