A reservations-only Chinatown cocktail bar behind an unmarked door — one of the strictest dress-code-and-behavior speakeasies in America, with a famously eccentric owner ("Lê," who runs the room like a benevolent dictator) and a serious cocktail program built around classic technique. No cell phones, no photographs, no sneakers, no group selfies, jacket preferred. Theatrical, ceremonial, the kind of bar that polarizes by design. For diners who want a speakeasy that takes the format with full conviction.