A Back Bay Greek restaurant built around the largest Greek wine list in the country — over 200 bottles, many from indigenous varietals most Americans have never heard of. The mezze are the move: spreads, grilled octopus, lamb, the kind of spread-the-table-and-share format that turns dinner into a long evening. Warm, lively, the rare Greek room that treats the cuisine as worth serious attention rather than gyros-and-grape-leaves cliché.