Tao Group's glamorous Italian on the Sunset Strip, where the room does as much work as the kitchen — modern chandeliers, brown-velvet booths, a tree at the center, and a retractable roof for star-gazing. The menu leans showy: the famous one-pound Wagyu meatball, wood-fired pizzas, tableside fanfare and citrus slices for your water. It tips toward scene over substance, but the cooking is better than the clubstaurant label suggests. A reliable pick for a birthday, a date, or any night meant to impress.