Kevin Tien's modern Vietnamese restaurant inside the Penn Quarter InterContinental — a James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic running a menu that honors Vietnamese tradition without being beholden to it. Cô Hieu's egg rolls (his mother's recipe), Vietnamese coffee tiramisu, a bún bò huế that's become one of the dish's defining versions in America. The room is sleek without being precious; the cooking is generous and personal.