A roadhouse on the highway in Avondale, across the river, run by the same family since 1946 — a Creole-Italian institution worth the drive out of the city. Chicken à la grande, oysters Mosca, baked macaroni, served family-style in portions built for sharing in a no-frills room. Cash-friendly, old-school, gloriously unchanged. For a pilgrimage to one of the last great Italian-Creole roadhouses in America.