Evan Funke's Roman counterpunch to his fresh-pasta orthodoxy at Felix and Funke — here it's the deep cuts of Roman cucina inside a former 1920s movie-theater-turned-grand-dining-room. The carbonara is the city's best argument for the dish, the spaghetti pomodoro is restraint as power move, and the room itself is one of the most cinematic in Hollywood. Loud, romantic, made for a long night.