Tracy Chang's Central Square restaurant blends Spanish and Japanese traditions in a way that sounds improbable and works completely — the guabao (bao buns) and the squid-ink oahu pasta sit alongside Spanish-inflected small plates, and the whole menu reflects Chang's training across both cuisines. Lively, inventive, community-minded (Chang's a notable figure in Boston's restaurant-world activism). For diners who want fusion that's conviction rather than gimmick.