A members-only Italian-American social club in East Passyunk that opened in 1918 — restored and revived in 2016 into one of the most coveted reservations in Philadelphia. No cell phones, no photographs, a tight handwritten menu of red-sauce classics done at a level the format rarely reaches, and a long marble bar that fills nightly with members and their guests. Earned a James Beard nod and a Bon Appétit Best New nod. For the most exclusive dinner in Philadelphia, served as if 1965 never ended.