Joe Beddia's Fishtown pizzeria has been one of America's most celebrated pizzas since the original four-seat counter opened in 2013 — a James Beard winner who built his reputation on a careful, almost meditative approach to dough, fire, and balance. The expanded room added wine and a fuller menu without diluting the pizza obsession. The Wise Guy and the tomato pie are the signatures. For one of the country's most thoughtful approaches to American pizza.