Michael and Lindsay Tusk's Jackson Square anchor has been one of San Francisco's most serious tasting-menu rooms since 2003, earning three Michelin stars for cuisine that treats Northern Italian tradition the way Bay Area produce demands it be treated — with reverence and patience. The dining room is hushed and refined; the kitchen sends out course after course of restrained perfection. White truffle when it's in season is the religious experience. For the most formal occasions only.