Bobby Beydoun's modern Lebanese restaurant in Bethesda treats Levantine cuisine with the seriousness most American restaurants reserve for European tradition — a wood-burning oven for the flatbreads, mezze platters built like compositions, and a tasting menu that walks through Beirut's culinary identity course by course. The room is warm and lantern-lit, the cocktail program leans into arak, and the cooking earns the trip out from the city.