Neal Fraser's downtown restaurant occupies the former rectory of St. Vibiana's Cathedral — vaulted ceilings, a retractable roof over the courtyard, the kind of room that feels like a real occasion before the food arrives. The menu spans California-Mediterranean with quiet confidence: foie gras with rhubarb, hand-cut pastas, dry-aged ribeyes. One of the most beautiful dining rooms in LA and a credible argument for the city's grown-up restaurant tradition.