Walter and Margarita Manzke's all-day French inside the former Charlie Chaplin commissary on La Brea — a cathedral of a room with vaulted ceilings, morning pastries that pull lines down the block, and a dinner menu that has been quietly excellent since 2014. Margarita's pastry program is the gravitational center. Come for breakfast and croissants, dinner and steak tartare, or weekend brunch when the room is at its best.