A tiny Bywater restaurant that earned national attention for its ambitious tasting menu served in an intimate back room behind a casual wine bar — French technique applied to Gulf ingredients, a frequently-changing format, and the kind of personal, chef-driven cooking that represents NOLA's modern fine-dining edge. Booking the tasting room takes effort; the wine bar up front is the accessible entry. For diners who want to see where New Orleans cooking is going, not just where it's been.