A wood-fire tasting menu room where the open hearth is the entire point — chefs cooking in front of you, smoke and char threading through nearly every course, and a wine program deep enough to follow wherever the meal goes. The Embarcadero space is industrial-warm with brick walls and copper accents, and the kitchen treats live-fire cooking as a serious tradition rather than a gimmick. Three Michelin stars in its prime; still one of the most distinctive rooms in California.