PHILADELPHIA
MIDDLE EASTERN
Suraya
Middle Eastern · Warm · North Philadelphia
$$
A Fishtown Lebanese restaurant that's part café, part market, part sprawling dinner room — all day pastries and coffee in front, a serious Levantine dinner program in back, with a James Beard semifinalist nod for Best New when it opened. The mezze are the move; the wood-fired flatbreads are the signature; the room is one of the prettiest in Philadelphia. For Lebanese cooking treated with the seriousness Solomonov gave Israeli food, in a city that increasingly takes both traditions seriously.