Omakase, democratized. Sushi by Bou took the hushed, wildly expensive sushi counter and turned it into a timed speakeasy — a hidden entrance, a themed room, twelve or seventeen Edomae courses delivered in about an hour by a chef working the eight-or-so seats in front of you. It's fast, a fraction of the city's marquee omakase prices, and leans into the fun: a secret door, lively music, the occasional Wagyu-and-uni 'surf and turf.' Not the most serious sushi in New York, but among the most entertaining ways to eat it.