Thai-born self-taught chef Atip "Chef Palm" Tangjantuk runs a basement speakeasy at 71-26 Roosevelt Avenue in Jackson Heights — fifteen courses for $99 with unlimited sake folded in, four nightly hour-long seatings rotating the room from five p.m. on. The register is the anti-Edomae: disco balls, smoking guns, sparklers in handrolls, staff doing shots with guests, the explicit goal of getting the room drunk together. Palm trained himself after moving to the U.S. for grad school, then built a format around what omakase looks like when the meditative monastic posture gives way to a party. Counter chefs Lucas and Woody (also Thai-born) work the rotation; a 2022 Williamsburg sibling extends to eighteen courses for $129 in a similarly accelerated ninety-minute window. For accessibly-priced omakase that takes the form's discipline seriously while reading it through a totally different cultural register.
