Kwame Onwuachi built his flagship on the ground of Old San Juan Hill — the Black neighborhood razed to raise Lincoln Center — and made the homage the whole point. Named for the sister who helped raise him, Tatiana braids his Nigerian, Jamaican, Trinidadian, and Creole roots into something unmistakably New York: short-rib pastrami suya, egusi dumplings, braised oxtail, served loud over a hip-hop soundtrack in David Geffen Hall. Pete Wells named it the best restaurant in New York two years running, 2023 and 2024; the James Beard winner had already been crowned the country's rising star. The reservation is one of the hardest in the city, traded on the black market for hundreds. It is fine dining without the hush — a love letter to the Bronx that raised him and the community the city paved over.