Paul Einbund's Mission restaurant runs a duck-and-wine concept that other restaurants would consider too narrow — but the smoked duck here is the city's best, the wine program is one of SF's deepest, and Einbund pours table-side with the kind of warmth that turns first-time diners into regulars. The room is intimate, the menu changes with the season, and the duck program has become a quiet SF pilgrimage.