Ralph Lauren's first restaurant and the most coherent brand-installation dining room in New York — saddle-leather banquettes, hunter-green walls, tartan pillows, and a Henry Koehler polo-match mural turn the subterranean Madison Avenue space into a wearable mood board the Ralph Lauren flagship couldn't otherwise hang. Chef Sepp Stoner runs classic American comfort — Polo Bar burger, corned beef on griddled rye, NY strip with a beautiful char, pounded veal chop, Dover sole — competent rather than chef-driven, which is exactly the format's assignment. Reservations release monthly by phone at 10am one month out, with AmEx Platinum and Dorsia as known backdoors; smart-elegant dress code, no athleticwear or hoodies. Infatuation 8.0 with the right framing: "impossible to get into for a reason, and the reason is because it's impossible to get into." For NYC's hardest table where the room is the editorial more than the kitchen.