Tyson Cole's Houston outpost of the Austin original — the same modern Japanese cooking that earned Cole James Beard recognition, brought to a Montrose space with its own room and pedigree. The hama chili, the maguro sashimi with goat cheese, the omakase counter that anchors the night. Less foundational than the Austin Uchi (which essentially invented modern Texas Japanese), more about extending the Cole approach to Houston's audience. For Cole's cooking in the city that probably should have always had it.